Spending a day hiking and exploring the trails of El Valle, a small mountain town located about 2 hrs from Panama City, seemed like the perfect plan; we just didn't think our hike would come so soon!
When we arrived to the trail head, we were greeted by a petite woman who said she would take us to the top of La India Dormida (the Sleeping Indian Princess). We were planning to hike to the peak the next day, but thought it would be great to see the Petroglyphs and lower waterfall pool from a local's perspective.
It was just as gorgeous as I remembered El Valle being last visit. Water spilled over the rocks and formed a pool that brave souls jumped into from the cliff's edge. I held my breath and cautiously followed Becca, Renee, and Brennan as they easily climbed over the rock ledge of the waterfall. We picked our way over the slippery rocks of the waterfall until we couldn't climb anymore, then climbed back down to find our guide had disappeared. Nevertheless, Brennan and Becca continued on, and Renee and I followed their lead.
Together, we stumbled upon a larger waterfall that went all the way up the mountain. We were told later that the waterfalls were like the flowing hair of the Sleeping Indian Princess. Above us were two more waterfalls with little pools that people were swimming in. At one point, Brennan and Becca decided to scale the steep rocks on the waterfall's face. I was impressed to see the skill of these fearless rock climbers, but for myself, chose the safer-looking path that seemed to run parallel to the waterfall.
Risk and Reunion
A little ways up the path, Renee looked down to where Brennan and Becca had climbed. Renee, with great foresight, predicted that the waterfall route and the path did not, in fact, follow each other. Fortunately, she realized this early, and, brave soul that she is, scrambled down the side of the mountain to deliver the news. Five minutes later, we were all reunited once again on the correct path.
Meanwhile, biding time waiting for my friends, I began to talk to passerbys; I kept seeing more and more people coming up this path. While talking to someone on their rest break, I learned that this path was in fact the route up to "La India Dormida." The exact destination we wanted to go (tomorrow)!
The Dilemma
After my friends and I were reunited, we deliberated whether or not to summit the peak today or wait until tomorrow like originally planned. I figured we were already halfway, and knew that it was better for me to hike now, while I was still full of adrenaline to push through and complete the trek. We all got excited at the thought of climbing the mountain a day early; the only argument against this was the rumbling in our stomachs. Would we make it okay for one more hour without lunch? Right as we were weighing our options, Brennan reached into his pocket and discovered that he had stashed a bag of peanuts and some jolly ranchers in his jacket! We were saved, and our decision to climb onward and upward was unanimous.
The Climb
We traversed a series of rocky steps, clinging to the side of the mountain as we pulled ourselves still higher. At one point, we were about to take a wrong turn, when a man with a crate on his back providentially pointed us in the right direction--a switchback, up the trail to the left. Only when doing the about-face did we notice the tiny purple arrow spray painted onto a rock at the trailhead.
We followed the switchback as it snaked around the mountain and up. I recognized La Piedra de Sapo, and mentally checked off that this was the farthest I had ever climbed on the trail. Continuing on, we surveyed multiple people about how much longer it was to the top. We received such a variety of answers, from 20 minutes to one hour. But we were already resolved to keep going to the peak of La India, so their answers did not deter us. And just twenty minutes later, we reached a steep gravel section of the trail which seemed to lead to the very top of the mountain. I was excited, thinking, "This is incredible. We're almost there!" Gripping onto secure rocks and roots protruding from the path's edge, I clawed my way to the top.
"Is this the top?" I wondered aloud, as I stepped over a large tree root to join my experienced hiker friends.
Brennan calculated the time, and shook his head "no."
Yet, we were all grinning like crazy. We had our first glimpse of the view of El Valle from above, and it was stunning.
Fork in the Road and Enchanted Forest
From here, the path curved in two different directions. We noticed some faded turquoise arrows pointing to the left and felt reassured we were going the correct way when we met up with fellow hikers along the path.
This next part of the trail led downward, instead of upward, as we had hoped. The path led us right through the middle of a thick forest. We all paused, listening to the trees, as we swore we walked straight into an Enchanted Forest. The trees looked unreal with their roots twisted into elaborate patterns, and the branches of the trees extended as if to grab parts of the sky. "This hike is totally worth it." Becca commented after taking in this view.
Leaving the "Forbidden Forest," we began our ascent up the mountain's crest. My heart started to beat faster as I saw the path narrow ahead. I gritted my teeth and resumed my self chant that helped get me through the intense Huayna Picchu hike last summer. "It's okay. Do not fear." My friend, Renee, heard me and offered some words of encouragement. She also agreed to walk in front of or behind me, depending on what I needed. (True friendship.)
Brennan shouted down to me that where Becca and he were standing was stable. If only my knees would stop shaking! I exhaled as I sat on the ledge of rocks, and rubbing my sore legs, I looked up."Wow." I gasped. Majestic mountain hills surrounded me, and I could see a solitary man hiking two mountains away. Becca, Brennan, and Renee continued on, taking the high road, a path that curved upwards over a steep hill and down.
They pointed out that there was a lower, much easier path that would connect up again just moments later. Never have I felt so relieved.
The Final Push
I met up with my friends on the next dip and looked up at the highest peak up ahead. I didn't want to climb it; too much unexpected, too much mental strain. I sat down on the rocks and tried to gather up my courage. Breathe. Just breathe.
And then I heard them. My friends were a little ways ahead of me, and they were shouting and pointing at something in the valley below. Lost in my own thoughts, I switched back into alert "hiking mode," and followed their gaze. In the valley below was something spectacular, something that was the the "cherry on top,", the "crowning jewel," the redeeming part of this whole hiking experience.
A rainbow! I sat there in amazement. God had got me this far, and He would carry me and guide me all the way to the top! In my life, rainbows have served as a special sign of God's promise, just when I've needed the reminders most, and I again felt His gentle whisper echo in my heart: "I love you. I've got you. Do not fear."
"Okay." I shook my hands out nervously and brushed the dust off my pants. Ducking down, I grabbed ahold of the rocks and slowly used my legs to push myself upward. Even though it was a mere 10 feet or less of this steepest part, the unpredictability, the edge looming near, and the strong wind whipping at my clothes taunted me. "Almost there!" my friends called from the top.
I stumbled and collapsed near them onto a relatively flat surface. We had made it: La India Dormida! I forced myself to breathe and look downwards. The rainbow was brighter now, wider, stretching across the whole valley, and making a perfect arch. My mind spun as I thought of how far I climbed, then I smiled as thought of how Jesus continues to help me conquer my fear of heights.
I wanted to shout and cry with joy at the same time. We sat together in silence a moment, admiring the volcanic crater now filled with lush greenery, forests, and village homes. A light rain pitter-pattered on our backs and cooled our weary bones. We were literally "somewhere over the rainbow." The others were similarly moved by the sight, compelled to burst out in the Doxology song.
I sang with them, contemplating what a mighty God we serve and how much He knows and cares for His people.
"Praise God from whom all blessings flow.
Praise Him all creatures here below.
Praise Him, above ye Heavenly hosts.
Praise Father, Son and Holy Ghost.
Amen."
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